As many books as you want!
Add this book to bookshelf
Grey
Write a new comment Default profile 50px
Grey
Read online the first chapters of this book!
All characters reduced
Cocaine + Surfing - A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair - cover

Cocaine + Surfing - A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair

Chas Smith

Publisher: Rare Bird Books, A Vireo Book

  • 0
  • 0
  • 0

Summary

From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for NonfictionIt is likely not terribly surprising that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws. Tanned boys who refused to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water.As the surf brands accidentally morphed into a multimillion, then multibillion dollar industry beginning in the 1980s, however, the derelict portrait began to harm business. In order to achieve wild year-on-year growth that came to be expected surf trunks, t-shirts and sunglasses had to be sold en mass through Midwestern mall stores. Moms in Des Moines did not want corn-fed junior to be a delinquent. And so the external surf image of the 1980s, 90s into the present became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton. Health, vitality, bravery, clean-living, positive and pure with heavy doses of puritanism.Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart’s true home, its soul’s twin flame. Cocaine’s rise in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion.The surfer and his lover are entwined in gorgeously dysfunctional embrace. A forbidden love like Romeo and his Juliet and few, if any, outside the insular surf world knew or know about this particular rhapsody. A byzantine ethic keeps interlopers far away. Bad behavior is also kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of psychosis rears its head from time to time. Overdoses, bar fights, surf contests and murders and cover-ups.Cocaine + Surfing peels the curtains back on a hopped up, sometimes sexy sometimes deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders. It also explores where dreams go when they die.

Other books that might interest you

  • Her Majesty - Queen Elizabeth II and Her Court - cover

    Her Majesty - Queen Elizabeth II...

    Robert Hardman

    • 0
    • 2
    • 0
    Perfect for fans of The Crown, this “intimate portrait” of England’s longest-reigning queen takes you behind the scenes of a thoroughly modern monarchy (BBC Entertainment). History knows no monarch like her. She has traveled farther than all her predecessors combined, lived the longest of any of them, and known more historic figures—from Winston Churchill to Nelson Mandela, Charles de Gaulle to Barack Obama—than anyone alive. Now, distinguished royal writer Robert Hardman has been granted special access to the world of Queen Elizabeth II in order to produce an unparalleled portrait of one of the most popular public figures on earth. Arguably Britain’s best-known observer of the royal family, Hardman follows Elizabeth’s journey through her country’s transformation from an imperial power to a multicultural nation; details a twenty-five-year period in which she steered the monarchy through more reforms than in the previous century; and interviews those closest to her, including her grandson Prince William, Duke of Cambridge. Written in celebration of Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee, Her Majesty celebrates the head of an ancient institution that remains simultaneously popular, regal, inclusive, and relevant in a twenty-first-century world. “At long last, we have the definitive portrait of Queen Elizabeth’s world today,” raves Andrew Roberts, author of The Royal House of Windsor. “Robert Hardman knows the true story and tells it superbly.”
    Show book
  • Unframed Originals - Recollections - cover

    Unframed Originals - Recollections

    W. S. Merwin

    • 1
    • 1
    • 0
    In this haunting, elegantly written memoir, W. S. Merwin recalls in utterly unsentimental prose his youth, growing up in a repressed Presbyterian household in the small river towns of New Jersey and Pennsylvania. The complex portrait that emerges of a family without language or history, transforms the story of their isolated lives into the development of a writer’s conscience and a warning about the fate of a middle class eager to obliterate origins."This book is superbly written, offering deep glimpses into the complexities and mysteries of family bonds, with just that distancing from people and events necessary for artistic control."—Edmund Fuller, Wall Street Journal
    Show book
  • Elderhood - Redefining Aging Transforming Medicine Reimagining Life - cover

    Elderhood - Redefining Aging...

    Louise Aronson

    • 0
    • 1
    • 0
    Finalist for the Pulitzer Prize in General Nonfiction 
    A New York Times Bestseller 
    Longlisted for the Andrew Carnegie Medal for Excellence in Nonfiction 
    Winner of the WSU AOS Bonner Book Award 
     
    As revelatory as Atul Gawande's Being Mortal, physician and award-winning author Louise Aronson's Elderhood is an essential, empathetic look at a vital but often disparaged stage of life. 
      
     For more than 5,000 years, "old" has been defined as beginning between the ages of 60 and 70. That means most people alive today will spend more years in elderhood than in childhood, and many will be elders for 40 years or more. Yet at the very moment that humans are living longer than ever before, we've made old age into a disease, a condition to be dreaded, denigrated, neglected, and denied.  
      
     Reminiscent of Oliver Sacks, noted Harvard-trained geriatrician Louise Aronson uses stories from her quarter century of caring for patients, and draws from history, science, literature, popular culture, and her own life to weave a vision of old age that's neither nightmare nor utopian fantasy--a vision full of joy, wonder, frustration, outrage, and hope about aging, medicine, and humanity itself.  
      
     Elderhood is for anyone who is, in the author's own words, "an aging, i.e., still-breathing human being."
    Show book
  • Dark History of the Kings & Queens of England - 1066 to the Present Day - cover

    Dark History of the Kings &...

    Brenda Ralph Lewis

    • 0
    • 1
    • 0
    Despite its reputation as the longest established in Europe, the history of the English monarchy is punctuated by scandal, murders, betrayals, plots, and treason. Since William the Conqueror seized the crown in 1066, England has seen three civil wars; six monarchs have been murdered or executed; the throne of England has been usurped four times, and won in battle three times; and personal scandals and royal family quarrels abound. Dark History of the Kings & Queens of England provides an exciting and dramatic account of English royal history from 1066 to the present day. This engrossing book explores the scandal and intrigue behind each royal dynasty, from the ‘accidental’ murder of William II in 1100, through the excesses of Richard III, Henry VIII and ‘Bloody’ Mary, to the conspiracies surrounding the death of Diana, Princess of Wales, in 1997, William and Kate Middleton’s on-off courtship before they married, and Prince Harry’s years of partying, girlfriends and Las Vegas strip poker, before his 2018 marriage to American divorcée Meghan Markle. Carefully researched, superbly entertaining and illustrated throughout with more than 200 colour and black-and-white photographs and artworks, this accessible and immensely enjoyable book highlights the true personalities and real lives of the individuals honoured with the crown of England—and those unfortunate enough to cross their paths.
    Show book
  • Tony Hillerman's Landscape - On the Road with Chee and Leaphorn - cover

    Tony Hillerman's Landscape - On...

    Anne Hillerman

    • 0
    • 1
    • 0
    “You’ve read the books, now see the land. . . . It’s like having Tony Hillerman still with us.” —Denver Post 
    A photographic journey through the landscapes of beloved bestselling author Tony Hillerman’s novels—with an introduction by Tony Hillerman and a personal essay by his daughter, Anne  
    Step into the world of Tony Hillerman’s novels with this stunning collection of original documentary photographs of the landscape that was integral to his writing. Alongside these breathtaking photos are brief synopses of Hillerman’s novels, descriptive passages from the novels, the author’s own comments about the sites, and narrative information on the locations pictured. Compiled by his eldest daughter, Anne Hillerman, with original photos from Don Strel, Tony Hillerman’s Landscape is a timely showcase of a hauntingly beautiful region that captured one man’s imagination for a lifetime, and is a daughter’s loving tribute to her father.
    Show book
  • Joni and Ken - An Untold Love Story - cover

    Joni and Ken - An Untold Love Story

    Ken Tada, Joni Eareckson Tada

    • 0
    • 2
    • 0
    This is the true love story of Joni and her husband of 30 years, Ken Tada. A love story showing what it truly means for a man and a woman to live in love … in sickness and in health.  
      
    Even the honeymoon wasn’t easy. Did Ken realize what he was getting into when he proposed to Joni, a quadriplegic woman? As their marriage years moved on, Ken became increasingly overwhelmed by the never-ceasing demands of caring for Joni, who begins to experience chronic, extreme, nightmarish pain. Ken sinks into depression, and the couple finds themselves on parallel tracks in life, married and living under the same roof but drifting apart emotionally. 
      
    But as they fight for their marriage and find their way through the mazes of depression and pain, they wrap their two lives around their rock—Jesus. 
      
    During Ken’s denial of Joni’s diagnosis, and Joni’s thoughts of how wonderful a quick exit to heaven would be, they experience a personal visitation with the savior you will never forget.
    Show book